Marie Antoinette의 초상화를 통해 본 18세기 후기 여성 복식의 변화와 계몽주의 사상 - 1770-1793을 중심으로 -

Abstract

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen`s enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.