Abstract
This chapter examines amateur winemaking among European migrants in Australia as a practice of constructing and renewing ethnic and cultural identity. It draws from ethnographic research with home wine producers of Croatian and Italian migrant background in Adelaide, discussing the significance of winemaking as a culturally significant skill and marker of ethnic heritage and identity. Its practice embodies a sense of patrimony and ‘authenticity’ inherited from previous generations and reproduced with each vintage, even as techniques and equipment change. Wine produced in this way is valued not for any special physical properties but precisely for its ordinariness as an everyday drink, a manifestation of ‘what we’ve always done’. For migrant winemakers, their wine speaks of place, but this is not the rooted terroir hegemonic in ‘fine wine’ discourse. Instead, their wine reaches across the seas, making present a homeland distant in space and time.
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