Abstract

The aim of the research was to improve the process of knitted products design. The use of modern software helps us predict the physical and mechanical behaviour of materials, using their three-dimensional models. A macro-model of rib-knitted tubular parts was developed in the study. This model allows its implementation into algorithms, describing the peculiarities of the stretching process. Recent findings in the field of 3D modelling and simulation of knitwear behaviour aim at working with models of different scales of structural hierarchy. The use of macro-models provides the opportunity to simplify the geometry and significantly reduce the time required for simulation. Rib stitch structures are among the most popular weft-knitted ones. When using threads of usual stretchability (with breaking elongation that does not exceed 10–12%), the stretchability of some rib stitch structures in the course-wise direction can reach up to 350% and even more. When stretched in the course direction, rib-knitted stitches undergo a number of stages. The stretching process includes: decreasing the width-wise curling; mutual shifting of knit and purl stitches; reducing the curvature of the loop feet and loop heads; pulling the yarn from the loop legs to the loop feet; stretching of the yarn. The assumption was made that such parts of knitted garments as cuffs and borders on sweaters, cuffs on socks, where rib stitch patterns are used, can be described as thin-walled elastic shells. A part of a human body surface, covered with a rib-knitted garment part, can be approximated by a truncated cone. The mid-surface of the shell can be represented as a ruled surface created upon a set of Bezier curves, located along the circumference of the upper and lower bases of the truncated cone. The mathematical description, elaborated in the course of the research, was used for the computer program LastikTube, which was developed to create 3D macro-models of ribbed tubular garments.

Highlights

  • Recent findings in the field of 3D modelling and simulation of knitwear behaviour aim at working with models of different scales of structural hierarchy

  • If a tubular shell made of an even rib stitch pattern knit is put onto a conical surface, the knitted structure may undergo various levels of stretching in the course-wise direction

  • When the number of rib stitch patterns in one circular course is denoted as Nru and the perimeter of a ribbed tube in a free state as Q0, the pattern width in a free state Wru0 can be determined with equation 1: QQ0 WW!"0 = NN!" (1)

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Summary

Introduction

The challenge of designing knitwear with predicted properties is widely discussed in the scientific community. Some of the most important properties of apparel that affect the level of human comfort in the process of wearing clothes are air permeability, hygroscopicity and tactile comfort This idea has been confirmed in various studies [1–4]. In a ready-made product, the level of indicators that affect the comfort of clothes in the process of wearing is predominantly determined by the properties of raw materials they are made of and their knitted structure. The latter is predetermined by the design of the product and the compliance of its size with body measurements. The issues of knitted fabric deformation mechanism and fabric deformation modelling by means of computer tools were studied [14–19]

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