Looking at Marie de Guise

Abstract

This paper examines the symbolic value of the headdresses worn by French women at the Scottish court following the marriage of James V and Mary de Guise in 1538, using the Stirling Heads, portrait medallions from the Renaissance palace at Stirling Castle, as visual evidence. While several of the women are portrayed wearing a conventional French hood, others, including Marie de Guise, wear elaborately crafted “chafferons” which would have been made of gold wire. The chafferon is an unusual choice of headdress for a portrait and the reasons for this are considered with reference to the Petrarchan canon of ideal female beauty and how precious metal and shining hair merged into a single visual conceit. The royal accounts show that chafferons worn by the gentlewomen at the Scottish court were exceptional gifts made by the royal goldsmiths using Scottish gold from the king’s own mines, extracted with the assistance of miners sent by the Duke and Duchess of Guise. These chafferons, therefore, carried layers of meaning about the transformation of Scotland’s fortunes through dynastic marriage and the promise of a new Golden Age of peace and prosperity.