Longshore Current Characteristics in Madura Strait

Abstract

Bathymetri became the important factors affected the stability of the ocean waves. Wave instability due to the depth changes will form breaking waves. After breaking waves came, longshore current were occurred in coastal. It is very important when studied sediment transports and its effected on the beach stability. This research aims to know the characteristics of the longshore current which is formed due to the breaking waves in Madura Strait. Wind Data during August 2008-2013 is obtained from BMKG Surabaya and became the main material in this study. Wind Data are analyzed and converted into wave parameters and calculated breaking wave and longshore currents as well as the sediment transport. Results showed the relative small longshore currents (0.865-0.918 m/s) with direction from West to East amount 150 (according to the angle of breaking waves) allegedly caused relative wave height and period, and the second parameter is assumed similar for all points is caused the conversion of wind data. Direction of longshore current is formed from West to East amount 150 (according to the angle of breaking waves). Longshore sediment transport is 0.30-0.36 m3/s, linear with the magnitude of the wave energy flux, so the height and angle of breaking waves into a decisive factor in sediment transport