Abstract
The mechanisms involved in skin aging are not completely understood, although one of its hallmarks is the reduction of epidermal function. Aged-epidermis is in a constant state of water loss, triggering dry skin, flakiness, itchiness, inflammation and increase in skin sensitivity. Cutaneous barrier formation is a continuous and tightly regulated process involving epidermal proliferation and differentiation. A robust barrier function prevents water loss, regulates body temperature, improves host defense and protects against environmental stressors. Endogenous hyaluronic acid (HA) regulates keratinocyte proliferation, differentiation, barrier formation, cell survival, inflammation, oxidative stress, hydration and elasticity. With age, levels of endogenous HA decreases significantly, altering skin hydration and epidermal function. The goal of this study was to evaluate potential improvements in barrier function by treatment with a cosmetic formulation (HA5). Human skin explants were obtained from 30 year old (young skin, YS) and 60 year old (old skin, OS) female donors and were treated or not with HA5 for 5 days. Results showed a significant increased expression of HAS1 in OS treated with HA5 formulation when compared to untreated OS and YS. Enhanced deposit of HA in the epidermis was also observed after HA5 application. Treatment of OS with HA5 restored the expression of barrier function markers (IVL, GJB4, TGM1 and TJP1) to levels similar to those observed in YS, and also had an improved histological evaluation of endogenous lipid markers. Taken together, these data suggest that the active ingredients in HA5 (Vitis vinifera stem cell extract, marine polysaccharides and peptide complex) successfully restore endogenous HA in the epidermis, triggering a normalization of the skin barrier function. Normalization of endogenous epidermal HA levels by promoting its synthesis and preventing its degradation constitute a new approach to restore the skin’s barrier function, which is a multifactorial process that involves hydration, lipid composition and keratinocyte differentiation.
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