Abstract

Abstract Winds and waves in marine boundary layers are often in an unsettled state when fast-running swell generated by distant storms propagates into local regions and modifies the overlying turbulent fields. A large-eddy simulation (LES) model with the capability to resolve a moving sinusoidal wave at its lower boundary is developed to investigate this low-wind/fast-wave regime. It is used to simulate idealized situations with wind following and opposing fast-propagating waves (swell), and stationary bumps. LES predicts momentum transfer from the ocean to the atmosphere for wind following swell, and this can greatly modify the turbulence production mechanism in the marine surface layer. In certain circumstances the generation of a low-level jet reduces the mean shear between the surface layer and the PBL top, resulting in a near collapse of turbulence in the PBL. When light winds oppose the propagating swell, turbulence levels increase over the depth of the boundary layer and the surface drag increases by a factor of 4 compared to a flat surface. The mean wind profile, turbulence variances, and vertical momentum flux are then dependent on the state of the wave field. The LES results are compared with measurements from the Coupled Boundary Layers Air–Sea Transfer (CBLAST) field campaign. A quadrant analysis of the momentum flux from CBLAST verifies a wave age dependence predicted by the LES solutions. The measured bulk drag coefficient CD then depends on wind speed and wave state. In situations with light wind following swell, CD is approximately 50% lower than values obtained from standard bulk parameterizations that have no sea state dependence. In extreme cases with light wind and persistent swell, CD < 0.

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