Lactobionic acid in a natural alkylpolyglucoside‐based vehicle: assessing safety and efficacy aspects in comparison to glycolic acid

Abstract

Lactobionic acid (LA) is a newer cosmeceutical active belonging to the class of alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs), showing advantages over them. The aim of part I of this study was to compare efficacy and irritation potential of LA vs. glycolic acid (GA) from two types of vehicles - gel and emulsion. In part II, effects of LA-containing emulsions based on a new, natural emulsifier of alkylpolyglucoside (APG) type were evaluated. Skin bioengineering was used on 77 healthy volunteers to assess: color as erythema and melanin (MI) index, transepidermal water loss, electrical capacitance and pH of the skin. In part I of the study, the parameters were measured after occlusion and periodically during 2 weeks of test samples application; in part II parameters were measured periodically during 4 weeks. LA-containing samples has produced better skin performance when compared with corresponding GA-containing ones, particularly the lack of both skin irritation and skin barrier impairment. When used in vehicles based on a new APG-emulsifier, LA and GA have shown better efficacy, emphasizing the importance of vehicle on the effects of topical actives. LA (6%) in the emulsion based on APGs could be proposed as an alternative to low-molecular AHAs in cosmeceuticals.