Abstract
Many low-lying atolls fronted by coral reefs are vulnerable to wave-driven coastal flooding during extreme wave events. Previous laboratory studies on this issue focus mainly on the wave dynamics over one-dimensional horizontal (1DH) fringing reef profiles in wave flumes. To better understand wave transformation and run-up in a two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) reef-lagoon-channel system, a set of laboratory experiments are performed in a wave basin using an idealized physical model subjected to both regular and irregular waves. The wave height variation and wave spectrum evolution on the reef flat as well as wave run-up on the back-reef slope are first analyzed, and then the impacts of incident wave height, wave period and reef-flat wave level on these wave processes are investigated. Finally, the excitation of resonant modes is identified to account for the infragravity (IG) wave characteristics in the system.
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