Kimono: elucidating meanings of Japanese textile artifacts for a museum audience

ELLEN MCKINNEY,SOPHIA LUU

doi:10.1590/1982-02672021v29e9

Abstract

ABSTRACT The objective of this research was to create museum texts and educational materials for a textiles section of a major year-long university museum exhibit focused on exploring Japanese culture and aesthetics through works of fine and applied art. Little background information about the textiles was available. A sample of historical Japanese kimono, yukata, and obi in a university collection was examined using material culture and semiotics research methods. The motifs present in the textiles were identified and explored for how the motifs represent values relevant to Japanese cultural practices throughout time. In particular, motifs were analyzed for their noted conveyance of a society’s religious and cultural values. Motifs were predominantly botanical, emphasizing the respect for nature within Japanese culture. Other motif categories present included geometric, animals/insects, cultural/everyday objects, and landscape motifs. 104 individual motifs were identified. Symbolic meanings were examined and interpreted alongside present materials, colors, and techniques. The use of material culture and semiotics research methods for analyzing Japanese textiles is mapped in this study.

Highlights

Dress communicates ideas about an individual’s self that mirror time and society
Based on the literature review, the following research question was developed: How can material culture and semiotics be used to understand the meanings of symbols found in Japanese textiles selected from a university museum's collection? The purpose of this research was to examine a sample of Japanese textile artifacts in a university collection and explore how motifs represent values relevant to Japanese cultural practices throughout time
Material culture and semiotics research methods were used in a multi-step process to provide an understanding of symbols found in Japanese textiles selected from a university museum's collection

Summary

Introduction

Dress communicates ideas about an individual’s self that mirror time and society. One’s identity may be revealed through body modification, supplements, and often most explicitly, through apparel. Prown posits "a high correlation between clothing and personal identity and values," since individuals take clothing criticism personally.. The kimono conveys a multitude of meanings through sleeve length, silhouette, and shape; fashioning of obi and necklines; color; and motif selection and placement. In Japan, the variety of colors, materials, techniques, and motifs used in their traditional garments, more so than varied cut and construction, indicate gender, class, status, and the current zeitgeist.. Motifs in kimono and obi often have auspicious significance coming from religious and popular beliefs and allude to an individual’s virtues, reflect emotions, and demonstrate season or occasion. In Japan, the variety of colors, materials, techniques, and motifs used in their traditional garments, more so than varied cut and construction, indicate gender, class, status, and the current zeitgeist. Motifs in kimono and obi often have auspicious significance coming from religious and popular beliefs and allude to an individual’s virtues, reflect emotions, and demonstrate season or occasion.

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Conclusion