Juniperus communis cell culture derived extracts for skin protection and regeneration

Abstract

Juniper is a valuable raw material for manufacturing of food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Demand for juniper derived ingredients is growing and creates challenges for sustainable use of this natural resource. One of the most efficient ways to respond to industry needs is the use of biotechnological manufacturing methods. Interest in biotechnologically produced botanical compounds increases, with cosmetic industry being the leader in the application of such ingredients. Aim of our study was to evaluate the potential of Juniperus communis cell cultures as sources of skin protecting and regenerating cosmetic active ingredients. Various cultivation conditions were tested, and extraction solvents compared. HPLC analyses confirmed the high flavonoid content in the cell biomass extracts, with procyanidines and prodelphinidines being the dominating compounds. High levels of beta-thujaplicin were also detected. Antioxidative activity was confirmed by DPPH and nitric oxide scavenging assays. Antimicrobial activity against Gram positive bacteria was shown. Flow cytometry was used to quantify reactive oxygen species (ROS) in human keratinocytes, and it was found that extracts reduced accumulation of ROS by up to 50%, thus protecting cells from oxidative stress. Quantification of senescence markers and collagen I gene expression analyses were performed to evaluate the skin regenerative potential. Extract reduced the accumulation of senescence marker by more than 30% and induced expression collagen I in dermal fibroblasts. Chemical composition and biological activities of J. communis cell culture extracts confirm the high potential of it as efficient cosmetic active ingredient. The work has been supported by ERDF project No. 1.1.1.1/19/A/075.