Investigation Utilizing the HLB Concept for the Development of Moisturizing Cream and Lotion: In-Vitro Characterization and Stability Evaluation

Shoaib Alam,Mohammad Zaki Ahmad,Javed Ahmad,Mohammed S Algahtani

doi:10.3390/cosmetics7020043

Shoaib Alam, Mohammad Zaki Ahmad + Show 2 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7020043

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Journal: Cosmetics	Publication Date: Jun 5, 2020
Citations: 15	License type: CC BY 4.0

Affiliation: Najran University

Abstract

The current study aims to utilize the concept of the hydrophilic–lipophilic balance (HLB) value of ingredients for the development of a stable emulsion-based moisturizing cream and lotion for cosmetic application. The combination of a hydrophilic and lipophilic emulsifier such as glyceryl stearate (HLB value 3.8) and PEG-100 stearate (HLB value 18.8) were found to be effective to emulsify the chosen oil phase system at a specific concentration to achieve the required HLB for the development of the stable emulsion-based system. The developed formulation was characterized for pH, viscosity, spreadability, rheology, and droplet morphology. The influence of carbopol® ETD 2020 and the concentration of the oil phase on the rheology of the product was investigated and found to be significant to achieve the required thickening to convert the lotion into a cream. The formulation system developed through utilizing the concept of HLB was compared to a product developed through the conventional approach. It was observed that the utilization of the HLB method for the development of an emulsion-based product is a promising strategy compared to the conventional method. The physical stability and thermodynamic stability tests were carried out under different storage conditions. It was observed that the developed formulation was able to retain its integrity without showing any signs of instability during storage.

Highlights

The appearance of the skin and its function are well maintained by a significant balance between the water content and lipid content of the stratum corneum (SC) [1,2]
The balance can be disturbed by exposure to external stimuli such as humidity; ultraviolet radiation (UV); temperature; and endogenic factors, i.e., hormones [2,3]
Alpha-tocopherol, and almond oil were used as skin conditioning agents

Summary

Introduction

The appearance of the skin and its function are well maintained by a significant balance between the water content and lipid content of the stratum corneum (SC) [1,2]. The regular application of soap; face wash; detergent; and topical irritants, including alcohol and hot water, can strip lipids from the skin surface [2,4]. The disruption of this balance results in a dermatological condition known as dry skin, a condition observed mainly in patients with atopic dermatitis [2,5]. In these circumstances, suitable cosmetic products are used to improve skin hydration, preserve the skin’s natural condition, and avoid dryness of the skin. Moisturizers are used to restore the skin barrier function in rosacea patients when used as an adjunctive therapy [9]

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Conclusion