Investigation of Wave Evolution Near Islands by On-Site Measurements and Numerical Simulations

Abstract

Extreme and long-term wave data near small islands, which are quite different from that of open seas, are crucial for the safety of offshore platforms. An environmental measurement system was deployed around a small reef island, which includes three wave buoys. The concerned environment parameters, such as wave height and period, current and wind speeds etc., have been measured by the system in a long-term plan. Meanwhile, a numerical scheme based on shallow water theory was developed, and the numerical simulations of the wave evolution around the islands were carried out and the results were validated with the measured data. It was revealed that the wave statistics changed significantly on the route of wave propagation. The ratios of wave parameters between near island locations and far field were obtained. Based on the method developed in this study, it is possible to predict the wave conditions at a location close to the shore on the basis of the known far field incident wave, which can be used for the design of near shore structures in the future.