Abstract

This paper reports experimental results of long wave run-up climbing up a 1:40 sloping beach. The resulting maximum run-up is compared with analytical results and a good agreement is found for single sinusoidal waves with uniform wave period and varying amplitude. Subsequently, the interaction with macro-roughness elements on the beach is investigated for different long-shore obstruction ratios. The reduction in wave run-up is expressed by means of a nomogram relating the wave run-up without macro-roughness elements present to those cases where on-land flow is modified by macro-roughness. The presented results mainly focus on a non-staggered and non-rotated macro-roughness
 configuration. In addition to the run-up reduction, surface elevation profiles on the shore are presented, that address the shock wave generation when the wave tongue approaches the first row of macro-roughness elements.

Highlights

  • AND OBJECTIVE IntroductionIn light of the disastrous consequence by major tsunami such as the 2011 Tohoku-Oki tsunami, the understanding of the generation, evolution and run-up of long waves has grown rapidly

  • The objective of this study was the analysis of the interaction between the long wave

  • with these waves is the focal point of the study

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Summary

Introduction

AND OBJECTIVE IntroductionIn light of the disastrous consequence by major tsunami such as the 2011 Tohoku-Oki tsunami, the understanding of the generation, evolution and run-up of long waves has grown rapidly. The severe inundation of the Sendai coast documented by a post-tsunami survey team suitably exemplifies this type of wave-structure interaction where houses and multi-storey buildings withstand the tsunami-induced current until they either collapsed or were washed away (Li et al 2011). The authors aimed at investigating the effect of sufficiently solid buildings and low sea walls capable of reducing the overall inundation height numerically and experimentally. They set up experiments where wooden pillars were exposed to varying stationary discharges. Forces and overturning moments were analyzed for varying cross-sectional positions of an idealized beach front house

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