Instrumented Climbing Holds and Dynamics of Sport Climbing

Abstract

This paper gives an overview of usage of instrumented climbing holds (equipped with force sensors) for assessing the performance of a climber, be it during training or competition, as well as assessment of training progress and success, gripping techniques, and value of equipment (e.g., chalk). The experience of the climber is expressed by a short contact time, a lower force at the handhold, a low impulse, and high friction. During training, the contact time, mean force, maximal force, and impulse decrease whereas the mean and maximal friction and the smoothness factor increase. There is no difference between dry hand and liquid-chalked hands, between dry and wet hands, and between powder-chalked hand on a clean surface and dry hand on a messy surface. However, powder chalk is far better than liquid chalk or a dry hand, and on messy surfaces, a dry hand is better than a powder-chalked hand. The higher a climber jumps during double-dynoing, and the more fatigued he is during bouldering, the lower are the finger reaction forces and thus the injury risk.