Abstract
The increased interest in natural cosmetics has resulted in a higher market demand for preservative-free products based on herbal ingredients. An innovative W/O/W type emulsions containing herbal extracts were prepared directly; its cation form was induced by an ethanolic rosemary extract and stabilized using weak herbal gels. Due to the wide phytochemical composition of herbal extracts and the presence of alcohol in the emulsion system, which can cause skin irritation, sensitization or dryness when applied topically, the safety of the investigated drug delivery system is necessary. The aim of our study was to estimate the potential of W/O/W emulsions based on natural ingredients for skin irritation and phototoxicity using reconstructed 3D epidermis models in vitro and to evaluate in vivo its effect on human skin moisture, sebum content and pigmentation by biomedical examination using a dermatoscopic camera and corneometer. According to the results obtained after in vitro cell viability test the investigated emulsion was neither irritant nor phototoxic to human skin keratinocytes. W/O/W emulsion did not cause skin dryness in vivo, despite the fact that it contained ethanol. We can conclude that the emulsion is safe for use as a leave-on product due to the positive effect on human skin characteristics or as a semisolid pharmaceutical base where active compounds could be encapsulated.
Highlights
In recent years, the interest in development of natural ingredient-based topically applied cosmetics and pharmaceuticals has grown [1]
To evaluate the safety of topically applied pharmaceuticals or cosmetics and investigate their effect on human skin in vivo, the composition of the product itself must be taken into consideration
Due to the wide phytochemical composition range of herbal extracts which were used to create and stabilize multiple water in oil in water (W/O/W) type emulsion, it is relevant to determine the concentration of active ingredients contained in the semi-solid emulsion after the preparation is finished
Summary
The interest in development of natural ingredient-based topically applied cosmetics and pharmaceuticals has grown [1]. According to the studies of Zhu and Woerdenbag and Choochote et al, the application of bioactive phytochemicals from herbal extracts is a potential alternative to synthetic substances to increase therapeutic effectiveness, minimize toxicity or side-effects and ensure environmental safety due to the biodegradability to nontoxic compounds [2,3]. It has been reported that some of the natural ingredients widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceutical preparations such as argan oil, Arnica montana extract, lavender, peppermint and tea tree essential oils, etc. The safety assessment of topically applied pharmaceuticals and cosmetics containing known sensitizing agents must be carried out so the toxicological evaluation of any created W/O/W systems is mandatory.
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