Abstract
Faced with the ban of some organic UV filters such as octinoxate or avobenzone, especially in Hawaii, it became essential to offer new alternatives that are both renewable and safe for humans and the environment. In this context, a class of bio-based molecules displaying interesting UV filter properties and great (photo)stability has been developed from Meldrum’s acid and bio-based and synthetic p-hydroxycinnamic acids, furans and pyrroles. Moreover, p-hydroxycinnamic acid-based Meldrum’s derivatives possess valuable secondary activities sought by the cosmetic industry such as antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase properties. The evaluation of the properties of mixture of judiciously chosen Meldrum’s acid derivatives highlighted the possibility to modulate secondary activity while maintaining excellent UV protection. Meldrum’s acid derivatives are not only competitive when benchmarked against organic filters currently on the market (i.e., avobenzone), but they also do not exhibit any endocrine disruption activity.
Highlights
While solar light is biologically crucial for life on Earth, significant exposure to radiations can have negative effects on the skin [1]
The simplest and the greenest synthetic procedure remains the reaction and greenest procedure remains the and reaction in isolated water asby thea simple compounds precipitate in water inthe water as thesynthetic compounds precipitate in water can be filtration, or otherwise andthey canare be isolated by a simple or otherwise they areavoiding obtained byexpensive liquid/liquid obtained by filtration, liquid/liquid extraction, the use of andextraction, wastethus avoidingchromatography the use of expensive and2)waste-generating chromatography
Study of the structure–activity relationships showed that UV properties of such molecules can be fine-tuned by judiciously playing relationships that UV. Such can be fine-tuned judiciously playing with the level ofshowed conjugation andproperties congestionofon the molecules aromatic moiety
Summary
While solar light is biologically crucial for life on Earth, significant exposure to radiations can have negative effects on the skin [1]. To protect oneself from these harmful radiations, a wide range of sunscreen lotions and cosmetic creams are available. Hawaii recently issued a bill, effective on 1 January 2021, against the use and sale of sunscreen containing avobenzone or octinoxate [13]. These molecules have been the subject of many studies in the last few years to demonstrate their negative impact on corals [14,15,16]
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