Abstract
Simultaneous infrasonic, visual, and ocean‐bottom pressure sensor observations of large swells on the island of Kauai and small to medium‐sized surf on the island of Hawaii yielded a clear relationship between breaking wave height and low‐frequency atmospheric sound amplitudes in the 1–20 Hz frequency range. These experiments confirmed that infrasound can be generated by barreling waves as well as by waves crashing against rocky shorelines and exposed ledges. As will be demonstrated in a companion paper, breaking wave period may also be extracted from infrasound data. The results of these experiments demonstrate that low‐frequency sound may be used for real‐time estimates of the amplitude, period, and spatial distribution of surf in the littoral zone, with a potential application to the identification of breaking wave types.
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