Infragravity-Frequency (0.005–0.05 Hz) Motions on the Shelf. Part I: Forced Waves

Abstract

Abstract In Part I, the energy levels of ocean surface waves at infragravity frequencies (nominally 0.005–0.05 Hz) locally forced by swell in 13-m water depth were shown to be predicted accurately by second-order nonlinear wave theory. However, forced infragravity waves were consistently much less energetic than free infragravity waves. Here, in Part II, observations in depths between 8 and 204 m, on Atlantic and Pacific shelves, are used to investigate the sources and variability of free infragravity wave energy. Both free and forced infragravity energy levels generally increase with increasing swell energy and decreasing water depth, but their dependencies are markedly different. Although free waves usually dominate the infragravity frequency band, forced waves contribute a significant fraction of the total infragravity energy with high energy swell and/or in very shallow water. The observed h−1 variation of free infragravity energy with increasing water depth h is stronger than the h−1/2 dependence pre...