Influence of the mechanical stretch property of fabrics on the wear comfort of men’s suit pants

Abstract

The stretch property of fabrics is one of the most important factors that provide comfort to wearers. It is expected that tension building up in the fabric can be relaxed and the garment pressure on the body can be reduced by appropriately exploiting its stretch property. Currently, the stretch property is predominantly realized using spandex. However, weaving or knitting elastic threads cannot be employed for the worsted fabric used to design men’s suits because of their effects on the mechanical properties of the fabric (e.g., embrittlement), which deteriorate with time. In this study, worsted fabric with a graded mechanical stretch property was produced, and the effect of the mechanical stretch property on comfort was verified. The mechanical stretch property is developed from the tension relaxation and fabric shrinkage along the weft yarn during the crabbing, scouring, and drying stages of the finishing process. Then, the form of the fabric is set by heating. In this study, the worsted fabric had an elongation ratio varying from 5.9% to 16.1% along the weft direction that was produced without using elastic thread. Furthermore, men’s suit pants were made from the fabrics. The effect of the stretch property on the garment comfort was verified through sensory evaluation and garment pressure measurement. The contribution of the mechanical stretch property in improving the garment comfort of men’s suit pants is discussed.