Abstract

In the current study, human keratinocyte cell line was used as in vitro cell culture model to elucidate the effects of the fatty acid chain length of acylglutamate (amino acid-based surfactant) namely, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and sodium myristoyl glutamate on their cytotoxicity and the ultraviolet B induced phototoxicity. The endpoint used to assess toxicity was a tetrazolium-based assay whereas, the phototoxic potential of acylglutamate surfactants was predicted using two models namely, the Photo-Irritation Factor and Mean Photo Effect. The results of this study showed that the fatty acid chain length of acylglutamate greatly influences toxic effects on human keratinocyte cells. In addition, all the acylglutamate surfactants tested on human keratinocyte cells demonstrated significantly less cytotoxicity (when irradiated and non-irradiated with ultraviolet B light; p < 0.05) and no phototoxic potential was observed in any of the acylglutamate surfactants, when compared with the positive control chlorpromazine. In conclusion, the in vitro studies confirm the suitability of sodium lauroyl glutamate destined for the synthesis and stabilization of lipid nanoparticles.

Highlights

  • In cosmeceuticals, surfactant has several applications, such as cleansing, foaming wetting, thickening, solubilizing, and conditioning

  • There is a predilection for utilizing biocompatible and biodegradable surfactants for cosmeceutical formulations [4]. Surfactant of this type can be achieved by designing molecules that mimic natural amphiphilic structures (Nα-acyl amino acids, phopholipids and alkyl-glycosides) [5,6,7]

  • To examine the outcome of ultraviolet B (UVB) on HaCaT cell proliferation rates, they were exposed to UVB at doses ranging from 50 to 500 mJ/cm2 and later the viable cells were assessed by MTS assay and colony formation assay

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Summary

Introduction

Surfactant has several applications, such as cleansing, foaming wetting, thickening, solubilizing, and conditioning In addition to these applications, surfactant is used for the synthesis and stabilization of lipid nanoparticles for improved delivery of cosmeceutical actives [1,2,3]. There is a predilection for utilizing biocompatible and biodegradable surfactants for cosmeceutical formulations [4] Surfactant of this type can be achieved by designing molecules that mimic natural amphiphilic structures (Nα-acyl amino acids, phopholipids and alkyl-glycosides) [5,6,7]. Acylglutamate surfactants are remarkably superior to conventional surfactants in characteristic features They have an excellent skin moisturization effect without a taut feeling, ability to improve conventional surfactant mildness, and usable even by patients suffering from skin disease [9,10,11,12]

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