Abstract
Oily skin from overactive sebaceous glands affects self-confidence and personality. There is report of an association between steroid 5-alpha reductase gene (SRD5A) expression and facial sebum production. There is no study of the effect of Asparagus racemosus Willd. root extract on the regulation of SRD5A mRNA expression and anti-sebum efficacy. This study extracted A. racemosus using the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid technique with ethanol and investigated its biological compounds and activities. The A. racemosus root extract had a high content of polyphenolic compounds, including quercetin, naringenin, and p-coumaric acid, and DPPH scavenging activity comparable to that of the standard L-ascorbic acid. A. racemosus root extract showed not only a significant reduction in SRD5A1 and SRD5A2 mRNA expression by about 45.45% and 90.86%, respectively, but also a reduction in the in vivo anti-sebum efficacy in male volunteers, with significantly superior percentage changes in facial sebum production and a reduction in the percentages of pore area after 15 and 30 days of treatment. It can be concluded that A. racemosus root extract with a high content of polyphenol compounds, great antioxidant effects, promising downregulation of SRD5A1 and SRD5A2, and predominant facial sebum reduction and pore-minimizing efficacy could be a candidate for an anti-sebum and pore-minimizing active ingredient to serve in functional cosmetic applications.
Highlights
Oily facial skin with greasy, shiny, and large pores causes unpleasant feelings and affects personality
The extraction yield from supercritical carbon dioxide extraction was 1.08%. scCO2 was used with ethanol as a cosolvent in this study since ethanol can extract more polar compounds, such as phenolic compounds [35], than scCO2 alone
Previous reports showed the presence of polyphenolic compounds from the aerial parts of A. racemosus [29,36]
Summary
Oily facial skin with greasy, shiny, and large pores causes unpleasant feelings and affects personality. The over-production of facial oil from overactive sebaceous glands is the major cause of oily facial skin. This skin type is prone to acne and seborrheic dermatitis [1]. DHT, a potent androgen, binds to the androgen receptor in the cytoplasm and translocates to the nucleus for androgen-regulated gene interaction This signal orderly regulates the proliferation of sebaceous glands, sebum production, and inflammatory cascades [5]. The inhibition of steroid 5-alpha reductase gene (SRD5A) expression can decrease the amount of DHT in cells, leading to facial sebum control. Dutasteride, a dual type 1 and 2 5-alpha reductase inhibitor, was approved for benign prostatic hypertrophy treatment. Some medicinal plant extracts, such as saw palmetto, sesame seeds, and argan oil, which have high polyphenolic compounds, have been introduced for facial sebum control [1]
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