Abstract

The high crystallinity of ramie fibre poses challenges in achieving optimal dyeing performance, such as reduced dye exhaustion. To enhance the dyeing capabilities of ramie fibre, several alterations were experimented with, such as caustic mercerization using a NaOH solution. However, because of the high NaOH concentration, removing the NaOH residue from inside the fibre becomes challenging. Herein, the present research aims to enhance the dyeing efficiency of ramie fibre by using sequential alkaline and alcohol pretreatment methods to reduce NaOH usage, accordingly relieving the wash process stress. The preliminary screening findings have revealed that iso-butanol is the most suitable alcohol solvent for modifying ramie fibres after treating it with NaOH solution since it leads to higher dye exhaustion (E%, 95.7%), dye fixation rate (F%, 88.2%), total dye fixation efficiency (T%, 84.4%), and K/S values (41.4). After that, the orthogonal array experimental scheme (L16) was applied to optimize dyeing performance. The NaOH usage was decreased to 160 g/L, the treating time was reduced to 3 min, and the dyeing performance of ramie fibre treated under the optimum conditions was better than that of a caustically mercerized one. It was determined that the NaOH concentration factor had the most contribution, accounting for 75.34% of the observed effects. The NaOH solution temperature factor followed closely behind, contributing 22.69%. Additionally, using analytical methods such as XRD, FTIR, TG, and SEM confirmed that the sequential treatment with the optimum conditions altered the structural behaviour of the original ramie fibre, which performances were similar to the mercerized ramie fibre. The barium value of sequentially iso butanol solvent treated fibre showed a greater level (213) compared to caustic mercerized fibre (179), indicating a significant advantage of mercerization performance was achieved. This advantage may be linked to improved colourfastness and handling qualities. Furthermore, the breaking force of both ramie fabrics was increased after the alkaline treatment and the sequential alkaline and iso-butanol treatment.

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