Abstract
In order to solve the poor rubbing fastness of dyed cotton fiber in the indigo/silicon non-aqueous dyeing system, the process parameters of the silicon non-aqueous dyeing system were optimized. Dyed cotton fiber was post-treated to achieve the optimum dyeing conditions for obtaining a better rubbing fastness. Meanwhile, the dyeing performance of cotton fiber in a traditional water bath and silicon non-aqueous dyeing system was compared. The results showed that the rubbing fastness of dyed cotton fiber in the silicon non-aqueous dyeing system (one dyeing) was lower than that of traditional water bath (twelve cycles), although the color depth of dyed cotton fiber was deeper. For obtaining a good rubbing fastness, the optimum temperature was about 70 °C and the optimal dyeing cycle was one. Moreover, fixing agents can significantly improve the rubbing fastness of dyed cotton fiber. Especially, cationic waterborne polyurethane had an optimal fixing effect on the dyed cotton fiber. Soft finishing would weaken the effect of fixing finishing on the dyed cotton fiber, but the softener can significantly improve the handle of dyed cotton fiber.
Highlights
Most traditional cowboy wear is made of warp yarns which are dyed with indigo on the sizing and dyeing machine, and woven into garments [1,2]
The dyeing performance results showed that the optimum temperature for obtaining good rubbing fastness of cotton fiber was about 70 °C, and
Compared with traditional water dyeing, the effect rubbing fastness level ofeffect dyed cotton fiber was 2~3, one deep dyeing could be achieved in the silicon non-aqueous dyeing system
Summary
Most traditional cowboy wear is made of warp yarns which are dyed with indigo on the sizing and dyeing machine, and woven into garments [1,2]. If indigo dyeing can be carried out on the loose cotton fibers, a series of cotton yarn with different performance, shape and indigo color would be produced through spinning with the aid of changes in fiber composition, proportion and the spinning method, and in weaving (tatting or knitting), abundant fabric surface effects could be produced through the selection of yarn and texture variation, and more personalized high-quality new denim products might be developed [6,7,8] With such an indigo dyed loose cotton, the imagination of the cowboy wear designer could be greatly expanded, and the flexibility of production could be improved. It is difficult to obtain the ideal dyeing depth after one dyeing in a water bath due to the very low affinity of indigo dye to cotton fiber [11], and it can only meet the requirements after repeated consecutive dyeing like the traditional dyeing of warp yarns on sizing and dyeing combined machines. Which has been expected for many years in the cowboy product field
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