Improved XBeach model and its application in coastal beach evolution under wave action

Abstract

ABSTRACT Beach evolution is one of the key issues in coastal engineering. High computational efficiency model of beach evolution is limited by strong wave nonlinearity, flow acceleration, and sediment phase lag. The XBeach model is improved to cover the three limitations in the study. First, the near-bed velocity of nonlinear wave is reconstructed by using nonlinear parameters. Second, flow acceleration and sediment phase lag are taken into account for the near-bed sediment conditions to calculate the equilibrium concentration of suspended sediment and the transport rate of bed load. The response of sediment is not necessarily instantaneous to near-bed velocity in practical problems, but separated into a phase (time) shift between sediment concentration and velocity and a phase residual denoting sediment amount in moving at flow reversal. The improved XBeach model performs better results than the original XBeach model. Numerical experiments are carried out using the improved XBeach model to investigate the effects of wave height and sediment size. The numerical experiments show that the volume and range of erosion/deposition increase with the increase of wave height and decrease of sediment size, and deposition center moves to offshore. The perspective of wave energy and phase lag can explain the erosion/deposition variation.