Hydrodynamics of Coastal Zones

Abstract

1. Introduction. Basic ideas and assumptions. Kinematics of water particle. Dynamics of water particle. Conservation laws. References. 2. Short Surface Waves. General characteristics. Problem formulation for short waves (P = 0.30 or U = 75). First Stokes perturbation method. Second Stokes perturbation method. Analytical and numerical solution for steep waves. Validity of theoretical solutions. References. 3. Refraction of Short Waves by Slowly Varying Depth. Geometrical optics approximation. Waves in neighbourhood of a straight caustic. Influence of bottom friction. Refraction - diffraction processes. Propagation of waves over underwater step and channels. Scattering of surface waves by periodic sandbars. References. 4. Long Surface Waves. General remarks. Boussinesq solution (O(n) = O(d 2 )). Solitary waves. Korteweg-de Vries equation. Cnoidal waves. Linearized long wave equation. Propagation of long waves over shoaling bottom. Edge waves. References. 5. Wave Modulation and Breaking. Nonlinear modulation of surface waves in space and time. Wave breaking. References. 6. Wind-Induced Wave Statistics. General remarks. Stress of wind on sea surface. Similarity laws for wind-generated waves. Statistical properties of the wind waves. Wave groups in the coastal zone. Long-term statistics in the coastal zone. References. 7. Spectral Properties of Wind Waves. General remarks. Width of energy spectra. Spectral models of wind waves on limited water depth. Evolution of spectral function over shoaling water depth. References. 8. Currents in Coastal Zone. Currents classification. Wind currents in coastal zone. Longshore currents induced by waves. Rip currents and coastal circulation. Mass transport in shallow water. Tidal currents in coastal zone. Interactions of waves and currents. References. 9. Variation of Sea Level. General remarks. Variation of mean water level due to waves. Variation of mean water level due to tides. Seiching. Storm surges in coastal zone. References. Author Index. Subject Index.