How do simple wave models perform compared with sophisticated models and measurements in the eastern Baltic Sea?

Abstract

Wave parameters set the base for the design of coastal structures. For this purpose, commonly modelled wave properties are employed. This approach is usually adequate in the open ocean conditions where variations in the wave properties are normally quite limited. The situation is different in the nearshore areas of basins of complicated shape where wave properties can be highly variable. Unfortunately, in many cases, long and sufficiently detailed wave measurements for model validation are not available. The use of default settings of wave models means that possible errors remain unknown. This approach could lead to overdimensioned structures or to structural failures. We address the magnitude of possible errors in such conditions by comparing the output of simple wave models (such as a fetch-based SMB model, the SWAN model forced with one-point homogenous wind, etc.) and a sophisticated multi-nested SWAN wave model forced with ERA-5 winds with recent wave measurements in various nearshore locations in the eastern Baltic Sea. We use records of different length over more than 10 years. While in some locations simple models or models forced with homogenous wind lead to acceptable results, in most areas more sophisticated models are needed to adequately replicate wave properties. The outcome of our analysis provides several site-specific hints for practical coastal engineering.