Abstract

AbstractThe HLD (hydrophilic lipophilic deviation) concept was applied to several water/i‐C13En/2‐propanol/hydrocarbon oil systems. For each oil, the optimum formulation, corresponding to HLD = 0, was determined by systematically changing the formulation as a monotonic variation of the surfactant ethylene oxide number (EON) scanned variable. The optimum value for EON (symbolized as EON*) was accurately pinpointed both by estimating the solubilization and by measuring the interfacial tension with a spinning‐drop tensiometer. This method allowed the classification of cosmetic hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, paraffin oil, squalane, squalene and hydrogenated polydecenes in C30, C40, C40–C50, on an equivalent alkane carbon number (EACN) calibration scale based on five linear alkanes covering the liquid range (C5 to C16).© 2003 Society of Chemical Industry

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