Historical Patents as Inspiration for Digital Textile and Apparel Design

Abstract

This research used historically informed analysis as a framework to examine studio design practice. Discovery of a historical patent for a coat made from a single pattern piece led to an examination of United States coat and jacket patents to identify past patternmaking explorations that could inform current design practice, with a focus on those with one pattern piece. These patterns allowed large expanses of cloth for surface design, especially for creation of engineered digital prints on a single canvas, and opened up avenues for creative experimentation. The research objectives were to analyze the patterns for shape and accuracy of fit, to evaluate them as a beginning point to inform future patternmaking and design approaches, to engineer digital prints for prototypes, and to create aesthetically appealing designs that could be produced with minimal fabric waste. Digital copies of the patterns were created, tested and compared, with a focus on evaluation of critical fit points and the potential for further creative development. Prototype designs were generated from the patent patterns, with some faithful to the original patent and others moving away from the patentee’s intentions, although keeping the pattern shape. Digital prints were then created and engineered for the patterns. This investigation also reoriented traditional apparel design practice by placing pattern manipulation at the beginning of the design process, and made design development contingent upon research objectives. At the same time it confirmed that research through design is not linear, and that studio practice also informed the objectives.