H06 Beauty is pain: symmetries in the cosmetic practices of ancient Rome and the modern day

Abstract

Abstract In the 21st century, the application of toxins, hair removal and skin bleaching are just a small part of an industry standard set by an influential few. There is a surprising degree of symmetry between modern-day practices and those of our ancient ancestors. Although the first use of cosmetics can be traced back to ancient Egypt, the Roman Empire developed such intricate practices that they affected fashion, law and public health. Paleness of skin indicated higher social status in the Roman Empire (625 Bc–Ad 476): it suggested one could afford to remain indoors. Cerussa—sugar of lead—was used to this end. Firstly, vinegar was applied to white lead shavings. Once the lead had dissolved and dried, it was ground and formed into tablets. Despite popular belief, the Romans were aware of the dangers of lead just as we are aware of the toxic nature of mercury and other harmful bleaching agents used by people in modern times. Just as modern influencers are able to shape beauty trends, it is likely that ancient writers held similar sway. In Ad 77, Pliny the Elder wrote that one’s eyelashes fell out from excessive sex and, understandably, the affluent Roman would not want to be regarded in such a light. Eyeliner created from soot and ash was applied with a needle or stick to increase the appearance of thickness of eyelashes. The Italian word for makeup is trucco (trick), and this viewpoint was reflected in several accounts. The poet Juvenal recorded that ‘A woman buys scents and lotions with adultery in mind’. Unfortunately, there is an absence of accounts by women delineating the female attitude towards cosmetics at the time. The modern desire to remove bodily hairs is mirrored by ancient Roman practice. Romans in high society would normally remove hairs, using anything from tweezers to ancient razors made of flint, but they also used hair as a distinctive feature. The emperor Augustus grew his beard and hair out on hearing the devastating news of the defeat of Varus, to reflect his mental state. Much like the $380 billion-dollar cosmetic industry, luxury cosmetics attained by high society had economic consequences. In 189 Bc, when Rome experienced economic strain, the controversial law of LexOppia was introduced, limiting the maximum wealth of women and subsequently their use of these luxury cosmetics. A surprising number of similarities exist between modern cosmetic practices, trends and harms and ancient Roman ones.