Greek flora as a source of new anti-oxidant, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase natural agents

Abstract

In order to investigate new cosmetic ingredients of natural origin, 50 plant extracts obtained from Greek flora were screened for their capacity to scavenge free radicals and inhibit enzymes related to skin ageing. Degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) has directly been linked to skin ageing and is correlated to increase in activity of enzymes such as elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid decrease, leading to a loss of strength and flexibility in skin and formation of deep wrinkles. Also free radicals induce the activity of these enzymes [1,2]. Discovery of bioactive molecules which show both anti-oxidant and anti-ageing properties is the target of the present study. Anti-elastase, anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase activities of 50 methanolic and ethyl acetate extracts were determined using spectrophotometric methods. Radical scavenging activity was determined by the ability of the extracts to scavenge DPPH and ABTS radicals. The majority of the samples especially the methanolic extracts showed high anti-oxidant capacity, e.g. Rosa damascena extract exhibited IC50 value at 47.6 µg/ml. In anti-elastase assay 8 extracts showed more than 50% inhibition at 100 µg/ml, in anti-collagenase assay 15 extracts showed more than 60% inhibiton at 100 µg/ml and in anti-hyaluronidase assay 8 extracts showed more than 80% inhibition at 300 µg/ml. The methanolic extracts of Sedum sediforme and Umbilicus horizontalis aerial parts inhibited elastase and hyaluronidase by more than 85%. Rosa damascena inhibited 80% of collagenase activity at 100 µg/ml. Antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory activities of the plant extracts suggest that they can restore skin elasticity and delay wrinkling process. Bioguided isolation process was performed in order to reveal the active secondary metabolites. In the case of Rosa damascena quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside, kaempferol-3-glucopyranoside, phenylethanol were proved to exhibit high anti-collagenase activity.