Abstract

Food waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was aimed at optimising and validating sustainable routes toward the extraction and further valorisation of these polyphenols, particularly for cosmeceutical applications. New formulations based on red grape pomace polyphenols and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were here investigated, namely betaine combined with citric acid (BET-CA), urea (BET-U) and ethylene glycol (BET-EG), in which DESs were used both as extracting and carrying agents for polyphenols. The flavonoid profile determined by HPLC-MS/MS analysis showed similar malvidin content (51–56 μg mL−1) in the DES combinations, while BET-CA gave the best permeation performance in Franz cells, so it was further investigated in 3D human keratinocytes (HaCat spheroids) injured with the pro-oxidant agent menadione. BET-CA treatment showed good intracellular antioxidant activity (IC50 0.15 ± 0.02 μg mL−1 in malvidin content) and significantly decreased (p < 0.001) the release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, improving cell viability. Thus, BET-CA formulation is worthy of investigation for potential use as a cosmetic ingredient to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, which are causes of skin aging.

Highlights

  • Each year, an estimated one-third of all food produced—equivalent to 1.3 billion tonnes worth around USD 1 trillion—ends up rotting in the bins of consumers and retailers or spoiling due to poor transportation and harvesting practices

  • Polyphenols from red grape pomace were extracted with the greener alternative of natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs), both as extracting agents and polyphenols carriers, incorporating NaDESs into bioactive formulations

  • NaDESs have recently been proposed as an excellent platform to enable transdermal delivery of various therapeutics, including proteins and siRNA, with a higher capacity for skin permeation and lower tendency to induce skin irritation compared to conventional chemical permeation enhancer (CPE) molecules [20]

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Summary

Introduction

An estimated one-third of all food produced—equivalent to 1.3 billion tonnes worth around USD 1 trillion—ends up rotting in the bins of consumers and retailers or spoiling due to poor transportation and harvesting practices. Food waste is a serious problem for food processing industries, especially when it represents a loss of a valuable source of nutrients and phytochemicals [1]. Exploitation of new extraction processes and 4.0/). Biomolecules 2021, 11, 1181 further valorisation of these by-products can increase resource efficiency and promote sustainable lifestyles. Is a traditional wine-producing country and one of the world’s leading wine producers, ranked first for volume of exports and second after France for value [2]. Only a minor part of the grape’s phytochemicals are extracted into the wine, so grape pomace, representing about 20%wt of the processed grapes, is enriched in high-value compounds, such as polyphenols [3]

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