Gilt leather/guadameci in Coimbra – comments on documents of the 12th and 16th centuries

Franklin Pereira

doi:10.14195/2182-7974_25_6

Abstract

Amidst different footwear, the taxes of Coimbra, dated from 1145, refer boots made in gilt leather/“gudemiciz”; it seems this is the first reference to gilt leather in the kingdom of Portugal, and in particular in a city recently conquered from the Muslims. In late 16th century, several documents of Coimbra University refer wall hangings, a table cover and large door frames made by a maker of gilt leather. These historic data take us into a journey of mudejar and medieval fashions where gilt leather was a part.

Highlights

Gilt leather is a rather unknown or hardly studied matter; production places, patterns, uses by the church and nobility, techniques, web of expansion and exports overland and overseas haven’t yet received studies and publications
Portuguese gilt leather artisans started workshops in the Low Countries in early 17th century; years later, local masters developed wooden moulds and press for quick embossing rectangle shaped skins; such industry expanded and exported to Iberia, helping the extinction of the last workshops. These Low Countries gilt leather pieces were used for altar fronts - like the one at Coimbra museum, screens and upholstery; these new motives of a repetitive industry seemed to be well accepted, as references and pieces are found from the northern village of Moledo until Beja, in the southern plains
All other shoes were cheaper than the “osas” model; we may consider that the “osas” were a luxury item It seems this is the first reference to gilt leather in the kingdom of Portugal –geographically adding land from Muslim domain, and in particular in a city recently conquered from the Muslims

Summary

IMPRENSA DA UNIVERSIDADE DE COIMBRA

Artigo entregue em: 2 de fevereiro de 2012 Artigo aprovado em: 19 de abril de 2012. RESUMO: Entre vários tipos de calçado, as posturas municipais de Coimbra, de 1145, referem botas em couro dourado/”gudemiciz”; parece ser esta a primeira referência aos guadamecis no reino de Portugal, e em particular numa cidade recentemente reconquistada ao domínio muçulmano. Em finais do século XVI, vários documentos da Universidade de Coimbra referem cobertas de parede, coberta de mesa e guardaportas, tudo fabricado por um guadamecileiro. Esta documentação leva-nos numa viagem às modas mudéjares e medievais onde o guadameci se encontrava

Introduction

Gilt leather making techniques

Use and ornament of gilt leather since the Middle Ages

Other references to gilt leather in footwear

The ornament of gilt leather