Geology of the Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina shoreface: Implications for the concept of shoreface profile of equilibrium

Abstract

Nearly 300 km of 3.5 kHz subbottom profile and 100 kHz sidescan-sonar data, a suite of over 100 short (~2 m) percussion cores and vibracores have been collected on the shoreface and inner continental shelf off Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina. Sidescan-sonar images were analyzed for acoustic backscatter to delineate the surface sediment distribution. Groundtruth data for the sidescan-sonar interpretations were provided by surface grab samples.Cross-shore sediment transport by combined waves and currents is the predominant sedimentologic signature on this shoreface. The shoreface is dominated by a shore-normal system of rippled scour depressions that begin in 3–4 m water depth and extend to the base of the shoreface about 1 km offshore, at 10 m depth. The depressions are 40–100 m wide, and up to 1 m deep. They are floored by coarse, rippled shell hash and gravel; some are separated by rock-underlain fine sand ridges. On the inner shelf, the bathymetric and sedimentary fabrics become shore-oblique, due to a series of relict ridges with 1–2 m of relief. The ridges are coarse on their landward sides and covered on their seaward flanks by thin veneers of fine sand.Field evidence from the Wrightsville Beach shoreface demonstrates that a shoreface equilibrium profile as defined by Dean (1991) and others does not exist here. For example: (1) the grain size varies widely and inconsistently over the profile; (2) shoreface profile shape is controlled predominantly by underlying geology, including Tertiary limestone outcrops and Oligocene silts; and (3) sediment transport patterns cannot be explained by simple diffusion due to wave energy gradients, and that transport occurs seaward of the assumed engineering “closure depth” of 8.5 m. This has several implications for the application of equilibrium profile-based numerical models used to investigate coastal processes and design coastal engineering projects at Wrightsville Beach. The most important practical implication is that a number of assumptions required by existing analytical and numerical models (e.g., Dean, 1991; genesis; sbeach) used for the design of shore protection projects and large-scale coastal modeling over decadal time scales cannot be met.