Geographical Notes

Abstract

AT Monday's meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, the paper read was by Mr. Randle F. Holme, on Labrador, which he visited in July–October of last year. Mr. Holme succeeded in penetrating into the heart of Southern Labrador, as far as Lake Waminikapou, and not far from the Grand Falls, which Mr. Holme believes will turn out to be the greatest falls in the world; but, as General Strachey pointed out in the discussion, Mr. Holme's conception of the height is probably exaggerated. Mr. Holme went from Newfoundland to Bonne Esperance on the southeast coast of Labrador, and sailing northwards touched at several points, proceeding up Hamilton Inlet and the Grand River, to the point mentioned above. Mr. Holme found many difficulties in the way, and much of the country he visited was virtually unexplored. With regard to the height of the Grand Falls, Mr. Holme states that the centre of Labrador, as is generally known, is a vast tableland, the limits of which are clearly defined, though of course the country intervening between this limit and the coast always consists, more or less, of a slope. Roughly speaking, it may be said that in the SDuth and north there is a more or less gradual slope from the height of land to the coast, while in the south-east the descent is sudden, and almost immediately after leaving the tableland there is reached a level which is but little above that of the sea. In the north-east portion the edge of the tableland approaches nearest to the coast, while it trends considerably to the west in the rear of Hamilton Inlet. The most fertile part of the country is that which lies between the tableland and the sterile belt on the coast, though the height of land itself is by no means a desert. On the height of land there is found a succession of great lakes joined together by broad placid streams When the streams of water reach the edge of the tableland, they of course commence a wild career down towards the sea. In the case of the Grand River this rapid descent commences with the Grand Falls, and almost the whole of the great drop to the sea-level is effected in the one waterfall. The elevation of the Labrador tableland is given by Prof. Hind as 2240 feet. From this height the Moisie and Cold Water Rivers descend to the sea by means of a considerable number of falls. But in the Grand River below Lake Waminikapou there is only one fall, viz. that which occurs 25 miles from the river-mouth. This fall is 70 feet. It is true that the whole of the river from Lake Waminikapou to the First Falls is rapid, but there is no place where there is any considerable drop, and indeed no place where it is necessary to take the boat out of the water. Now the lake first above the Grand Falls is on the height of land. In the channels joining the various lakes above the falls there are no rapids and there is scarcely any stream. It therefore follows, assuming the elevation of the tableland on the east to be approximate to that on the south, that in the 30 miles beginning with the Grand Falls and ending with Lake Waminikapou, there is a drop of about 2000 feet. Some of this drop is probably effected by the rapids immediately below the falls, but the greater part is no doubt made by the fall itself. The river is said by Maclean to be 500 yards broad above the falls, contracting to 50 yards at the falls themselves. The interior of the country Mr. Holme found was richly wooded, and the climate mild, though the plague of flies and mosquitoes was almost intolerable. The few Indians who inhabit Labrador belong mostly to the Cree nation, and according to Mr. Holme are probably perfectly unmixed with either whites or Eskimo. As an agricultural or pastoral country Mr. Holme thinks Labrador has no future, though something may be made of its iron, of the existence of which strong indications exist. Mr. Holme's observations have enabled us greatly to improve our maps of Labrador, and the photographs he brought home give an excellent idea of the general character of the country.