Geographical indications in cheese mountain areas: Opportunity or threat to landscape and environmental conservation? The case of Cabrales (Spain)

Abstract

This paper examines the impact of Geographical Indications in cheese mountain areas, exploring their potential to contribute to landscape and environmental sustainability by drawing on field work and documental evidences from Cabrales (Asturias, NW Spain). The Cabrales mountain, nestled in the Picos de Europa National Park, embraces a millenary culture linked to the elaboration of an intense flavor blue cheese. The commercial success of this cheese motivated, 40 years ago, the creation of the Cabrales Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). From that moment on, the implementation of certain control measures that affect the production process, together with the increase in demand, led to the disappearance of small producers and to the intensification of livestock management practices. Cheese producers took the opportunity that the PDO label gave them, and the PDO provided the context in which cheese production became an effective barrier against the degradation of the rural system. However, nowadays the intensification of livestock management practices constitutes the main threat to landscape and environmental conservation. Therefore, Local administrators and stakeholders should consider the need to reinforce the idea of a product whose quality is linked to environmental and landscape sustainability through the maintenance of the traditional extensive management practices.