Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

Catarina Rosado,Daniela D'Almeida Peres,Vladi Olga Consiglieri,André Rolim Baby,Maria Valéria Robles Velasco,Fabiana Graziola,Thalita Marcílio Candido,Telma Mary Kaneko,Joana Mota,Camila Areias de Oliveira,Michele Georges Issa

doi:10.1590/s1984-82502016000400004

Catarina Rosado, Daniela D'Almeida Peres + Show 9 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.1590/s1984-82502016000400004

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Abstract

Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility.

Highlights

Microspheres are microparticles in which a substance of interest is homogeneously dispersed within a polymer or a wax matrix, forming a monolithic system in which it is not possible to identify a distinct nucleus (Bresolin, Filho, 2003)
Aspect of microspheres and yield of the processes of preparation and crosslinking Protein-based microspheres were developed with gelatin, a raw material that offers low cost, biocompatibility, biodegradability, low antigenicity and potential application in several dermocosmetic products (Nahar et al, 2008)
The loss of, approximately, 25% in the process of obtaining microspheres can be mainly explained by the separation and removal of the low molecular weight gelatin in the supernatant of the emulsion when adding acetone, which is an agent that precipitates high molecular weight gelatin (Nahar et al, 2008)

Summary

Introduction

Microspheres are microparticles in which a substance of interest is homogeneously dispersed within a polymer or a wax matrix, forming a monolithic system in which it is not possible to identify a distinct nucleus (Bresolin, Filho, 2003). Gelatin is a biodegradable natural polymer that can be used to produce microparticles. Due to the aqueous solubility and limited mechanical and thermal properties of gelatin microparticles, improvements, such as crosslinking reactions, are necessary in order to provide the use in long term applications (Bigi et al, 2002; Hayashi, Tabata, 2011). Crosslink reactions can be performed by chemical or physical medium and they cause structural changes that improve the gelatin mechanical strength and water. R. Baby as a new alternative to chemical crosslinking agent for gelatin (Bigi et al, 2002; Strauss, Gibson 2004)

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