Abstract
India is rich in natural wealth and there are ample scopes to explore and revive application of natural dyes on textiles for growing consciousness of eco friendliness. Hence around the world, there are more and more information are now made available [1,2] to understand the chemistry of natural dyes and interaction between metallic mordant , natural dyes and natural fibres, to get maximum depth of shade of natural colour ants with reproducible shades by optimizing extraction, mordanting method and dyeing conditions and also to improve colour fastness for such natural dyed textiles of natural fibres like cotton, silk, wool and jute etc.
Highlights
India is rich in natural wealth and there are ample scopes to explore and revive application of natural dyes on textiles for growing consciousness of eco friendliness
The natural dyes can be extracted from dried solid raw material source of plant parts etc using aqueous method [5] i.e., by using boiling/hot water for the extraction with or without addition of acid/alkali/alcohol in extraction bath [10] at specific pH, MLR, Temperature and time followed by distillation,evaporation and vaccum drying etc or by waterless supercritical carbondioxide fluid extraction [11], or solvent extraction by using soxhlet apparatus extraction [12] by use of alcohol and benzene mixture and by using rotatory vacuum pump/or doing the extraction under reduced pressure etc
Some water insoluble plant material like indigo leaves (i.e Natural indigo being vat dye type) needs to be fermented and reduced to release the glucosides of the dye and this fermentation and reduction and solubilisation can be done with use of natural reducing agent and alkali combination like combination of liquid jiggery and citric acid, use of paste of citrous fruits like tomato, lemons, ripened banana paste and Ash soaked water etc., in combination with use of lime in all cases and heating
Summary
The Society of Dyers & Colourist’s Colour Index (3rd edition) defines natural colouring matters as ‘the natural dyes and pigments comprise of all colours obtained from animal and vegetable matter with no or very little chemical treatments [1]. They are mainly mordant dyes [1,2], but they include some vat, few disperse/solvent dyes, some pigment colour, a few direct, basic and acid dyes’ [1]. Application wise, natural dyes include some vat dyes, a few solvent dyes, some pigments, and some direct and acid dyes. One natural basic dye is known but natural sulphur, disperse, azoic or ingrain dyes are still not available so far
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