From Seitan Bourguignon to Tofu Blanquette: Popularizing Veganism in France with Food Blogs

Abstract

Once disparaged, ridiculed, or just plain ignored by the general public, vegans are a fast-growing group in French society. Until quite recently, meatless products could be found only at organic shops and were viewed by the general public as something for macrobiotic hippies who adore flavorless tofu. But today, these products represent a market that is expanding at an impressive pace. Although most restaurant owners are still dragging their feet when it comes to adding vegan or even vegetarian options to their menus and school cafeterias are still required by law to include animal protein in every dish they serve, it cannot be denied that veganism has arrived in France. The most-watched evening news shows regularly feature segments on the so-called “veggie trend,” vegan restaurants seem to be popping up like mushrooms all over Paris, food manufacturers are experimenting with vegetarian meat alternatives, and no fewer than 15 French-language cookbooks with the word “vegan” in their title appeared in the year following the first one in April 2014. In a country whose national cuisine has been listed as a UNESCO world heritage, and where a traditional dish is defined first and foremost by the type of meat used, this shift has been far from easy.