From Cattle Brand to Corporate Brand: Blue Jean Trademarks in Mid-century America

Abstract

Abstract Cattle brands are physical imprints of ownership applied to the flesh of animals. They were, in the nineteenth century, indispensable to ranchers for differentiating their cattle from a competitors’ stock on the open range. The branding symbol’s utility as a legible marker of property ownership declined after widespread fencing delimited the plains. Yet cattle brands remained present in vernacular visual and material culture as decorative features and motifs signifying the Old West into the twentieth century. Cattle brand imagery, largely divorced from its functional origins, was recombined and repurposed to add decorative flourish to a variety of garments, wearable accessories, and domestic objects. This article explores the persistence of cattle brands as a popular trope in mid-century America and focuses on denim jeans, manufactured by Levi Strauss & Co., and, in particular, Lee, companies that fashioned their company logos in the guise of a brand. Through material culture analysis I will examine how clothing companies employed cattle brand iconography in advertising, promotions, and product design to consider a historical moment in the cattle brand’s semiotic shift from indexical trace of property ownership to corporate brand logo.