Abstract

Microemulsions (MEs) were formulated using PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides and ethanolic propolis extracts. Characterization of MEs was performed by determining mean droplet size, polydispersity index, stability under varying external factors, and formulation effect on delivery of phenolic compounds into the skin ex vivo. Essential oils were included into the formulations of MEs and their influence on physical characteristics of the nanostructured systems as well as penetration into epidermis and dermis were evaluated. The droplet size, their distribution, and stability of the formulated MEs were not affected. Presence of essential oils in the formulation increased penetration of phenolic compounds in general, but only the amount of ferulic acid increased significantly. Mean droplet size increased with increase of oily phase amount, suggesting that phenolic compounds and components of essential oils were not modifying the formation of the interphase film composition and/or structure. Phenolic compounds were predominantly located in the lipid phase of the MEs thus minimizing their availability at the surface of the skin.

Highlights

  • Increasing understanding of risks affecting human skin and threats of resultant pathology is supporting search for new approaches and formulating innovative products to protect the outmost cells of human organism

  • Propolis phenolic compounds are considered as potent antioxidants that could be applied for minimization of deleterious effects of oxidative stress on biological systems of the living organisms

  • Application of MEs could result in increased quantities of phenolic compounds in skin layers due to presence of relatively high amounts of surface active agents and their ability to disturb the lipid matrix structure and resultant increased permeability of the skin

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Summary

Introduction

Increasing understanding of risks affecting human skin and threats of resultant pathology is supporting search for new approaches and formulating innovative products to protect the outmost cells of human organism. External stress factors and ultraviolet radiation in particular can cause damage of the exposed skin cells resulting in oxidative stress, premature aging, and skin cancers [1]. The association between skin ageing and increased oxidative stress is clarified by the fact that skin-ageing changes could cause elevated levels of oxidative stress. It should be emphasized that increased oxidative stress may cause skin ageing, and skin ageing and elevated oxidative stress levels may both indicate existence of some underlying general cause [2]. Applied sunscreen products can protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. It is determined that phenolic acids, nonflavonoids, and flavonoids can act as UV blockers reducing inflammation, oxidative stress, and DNA damage [3]

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