Abstract
Caffeine is a methyl xanthine alkaloid that has been widely used in cosmetic products as anti-cellulite. Caffeine has a hydrophilic character, thus it has difficulty in penetrating the lipid layer of the skin. The aims of this study were to formulate sticks containing emulsion and microemulsion caffeine (control stick), caffeine emulsions (emulsion stick), and caffeine microemulsion (microemulsion stick) and compare the penetration between them. Caffeine was made in the form of water in oil emulsions and microemulsion then form into sticks-shaped with the lipophilic component. All sticks were physically and chemically evaluated. The penetration of caffeine through Sprague-Dawley rat skin using Franz Diffusion Cell were tested for 12 hours. The penetration result of caffeine from control stick, emulsion stick, and microemulsion stick were 306.42 ± 34.92 µg/cm2, 927.75 ± 57.38 µg/cm2, and 2408.68 ± 81.65 µg/cm2 respectively, with percentage 5.90 ± 0.67%, 12.76 ± 0.78%, and 35.23 ± 1.19%. Physical and chemical stability tests were performed for 8 weeks at room temperature (29±2°C), cold temperature (4±2°C), and hot temperature (40±2°C). Microemulsion stick delivered the highest cumulative amount of caffeine in penetration test for 12 hours, followed by emulsion stick and control stick. Also, all sticks showed physical and chemical relatively stable.
Highlights
Caffeine is a methylxanthine alkaloid which commonly consumed as a beverage, administered as a drug, and applied as cosmetic
Caffeine was made in the form of water in oil emulsions and microemulsion form into sticks-shaped with the lipophilic component
Caffeine has a hydrophilic property with a log P value of −0.07, and it indicates that caffeine will be difficult to penetrate into the skin because the skin is mostly composed of lipids, so the skin becomes lipophilic
Summary
Caffeine is a methylxanthine alkaloid which commonly consumed as a beverage, administered as a drug, and applied as cosmetic. Caffeine has been clinically proven as anti-cellulite (Luo and Lane, 2015). Caffeine has a hydrophilic property with a log P value of −0.07, and it indicates that caffeine will be difficult to penetrate into the skin because the skin is mostly composed of lipids, so the skin becomes lipophilic. The hydrophilic nature of caffeine will complicate the penetration path into subcutaneous tissue to work as anti-cellulite. It needs a modification of caffeine form to increase its penetration into the skin (Luo and Lane, 2015)
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