Abstract
The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 °C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 μg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 μg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 μg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 μg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.
Highlights
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes damage to skin, inducing changes in collagen and elastic fibers.The associated photocarcinogenic injuries directly promote DNA damage, which is associated with acceleration of skin aging and risk of skin cancer [1,2]
Emulsions were prepared using tribehenin and a mixture consisting of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate as emulsifiers obtained from Croda (Campinas, São Paulo, Brazil)
Emulsions containing low concentration of fatty material are considered smoother with minimal oily sensation and are shown to be appropriate for topical application [48,49,50,51]
Summary
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes damage to skin, inducing changes in collagen and elastic fibers. The associated photocarcinogenic injuries directly promote DNA damage, which is associated with acceleration of skin aging and risk of skin cancer [1,2]. These risks can be prevented by protecting the skin against exposure to solar radiation, e.g., using sunscreens [3,4]. Sunscreens can be composed of physical and/or chemical filters. Chemical filters are known to cause allergic reactions, contact sensitivity, vitamin D deficiency, photogenotoxicity, among other disorders [5,6,7,8,9]. Potential endocrine disruptors of typical UV filters include benzophenones, camphor derivatives, and cinnamate derivatives [10]
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