Abstract
The aim of this study is to investigate Bichromatic-Bidirectional waves to characterize the subtractive wave-wave nonlinear interactions, using adaptive techniques rather than traditional spectral techniques. A physical model test in a 3D-wave basin was conducted and measurements were made with two arrays of ultrasonic sensors of free surface and one array of ADVs. The Hilbert-Huang transform, aided by the Multivariate Empirical Mode Decomposition, was applied to the orbital velocity data and the main characteristics of the infragravity wave (velocity amplitude, period and direction) were extracted with a good precision.
Highlights
IntroductionBichromatic-Bidirectional waves (referred as Bi-Bi waves on) may be a feature found in Nature more often than expected
Bichromatic-Bidirectional waves may be a feature found in Nature more often than expected
After developing the equations for the velocity potential, they could compute the forces on cylinders for the primary waves, including the second order interferences
Summary
Bichromatic-Bidirectional waves (referred as Bi-Bi waves on) may be a feature found in Nature more often than expected. The subtractive interference, usually related to infragravity waves, may be significant over the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics of sandy beaches, tidal inlets, coral reefs and harbors (Bertin et al 2018) These long period oscillations can drive rip currents (Dalrymple et al 2011); propagate into aquifers on sandy coasts and cause underground water fluxes through barrier islands, between sea and lagoons (Longuet-Higgins 1983; Li and Barry 2000; Geng and Boufadel 2015); can intensify wave run-up and overtopping over dunes, structures and fringing coral reefs (Cheriton, Storlazzi, and Rosenberger 2016); and can eventually dominate the net sediment transport in the surf zone (Aagaard and Greenwood 2008). Infragravity waves have been associated with microseisms (Longuet-Higgins 1950); can cause vibrations in coastal cliffs, leading to their instability and erosion (Young et al 2011); and are related to seismic waves in the solid Earth, a phenomenon known as “the hum” (Ardhuin, Gualtieri, and Stutzmann 2015)
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