Abstract

Even though submerged breakwater reduces incident wave energy, it redistributes the coastal area's wave-induced current, sediment transport, and morphological change. This study examines the coastal hydrodynamics and the morphological response of a wave-dominated beach with submerged breakwaters installed through field observation and quasi-3D numerical modeling. The pre-and post-storm bathymetry, water level, and offshore wave under storm forcing were collected in Bongpo Beach on the East coast of Korea and used to analyze the coastal hydrodynamic response. Four vertically equidistant layers were used in the numerical simulation, and the wave-induced current was examined using quasi-3D numerical modeling. The shore normal incident wave (east-northeast) generated strong cross-shore and longshore currents toward the hinterland of the submerged breakwater. However, the oblique incident wave (east-southeast) induced the southeastward longshore current and the sedimentation in the northeast area of the beach. The results suggested that the incident wave direction is a significant factor in determining the current and sediment transport patterns in the presence of the submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the quasi-3D numerical modeling is more appropriate for estimating the wave transformation, current, and sediment transport pattern in the coastal area with the submerged breakwater.

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