Field Observation and Numerical Modelling of Rip Currents within a Pocket Beach

Abstract

ABSTRACT Shin, S.; Nam, J.; Son, S.; Kim, I.H., and Jung, T.-H., 2017. Field observation and numerical modelling of rip currents within a pocket beach. In: Lee, J.L.; Griffiths, T.; Lotan, A.; Suh, K.-S., and Lee, J. (eds.), The 2nd International Water Safety Symposium. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 79, pp. 229–233. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Understanding the occurrence mechanism of rip currents are very important in terms of the sediment transport and the water safety issues. In order to investigate the rip current occurrence mechanism, field observations were carried out at Chunjin beach and a numerical model was employed to simulate rip currents by using the field observation data. The collected data set includes the beach topography, bottom bathymetries, shoreline, sand sample, and incident waves for each season. The field observation data showed the spatiotemporal variations of shoreline and sand bars. The results also showed that the rip currents were generated near t...