Fermenting Knits: A material-driven exploration of knit-based bacterial cellulose biocomposite textile materials through fibre reassembly

Abstract

ABSTRACT Environmental concerns surrounding textile production have increased the need and interest in developing material innovations and interdisciplinary approaches to offset this ecological impact. Bacterial cellulose is present in several industries, and its biologically produced form has shown potential use within fashion. Within the emerging field of biodesign, research surrounding bacterial cellulose textiles generally focuses on the initial sheeted growth, while alternative outputs and working methods remain scarce. Here, fibre reassembly is analysed by fully integrating broken down BC fibres with knitted structures. Material selection and working methods take a practice-led approach to experiment formulation in order to observe material behaviour as central to development. This project aims to create biocomposite textiles that enhance the properties of bacterial cellulose and expand its designable characteristics through low-tech working methods accessible from designerly backgrounds. The results are intended to inform further research in footwear design contexts, as basis to develop BC-based components. Experimentation shows BC fibres reassembled around the knitted structures, varying according to yarn choice and fermenting environment alteration. This demonstrates potential for material and methodology development while exploring co-design with living organisms. In the context of future applications, BC-based composite textiles can self-assemble at different growth stages, offering the possibility of material-driven approaches to spaces intersecting biology and design.