Features of wind waves at the southeastern coast of Sakhalin according to bottom-pressure measurements

Abstract

The results of wind-wave measurements with bottom-pressure sensors are discussed. These measurements were performed at the southeastern coast of the Island of Sakhalin in 2006–2009. The problems of converting data obtained with these sensors into water-level displacent in the context of the linear theory are noted. Twenty records with a duration of 2 weeks to 3 months were obtained. These records contain from 150000 to 1200000 waves for three different observation points located at the southeastern coast of Sakhalin in the regions of the village of Vzmor’ye, Lake Izmenchivoye, and the Cape of Ostryi. The estimates obtained for wave-height distributions were approximated by the Weibull distribution. They were compared to the theoretical Rayleigh, Forristall, Weibull, and Glukhovskii distributions. As one would expect, in the region of small wave heights, all distributions prove to be close to one another, and, for large wave heights, the Weibull distribution is preferred.