Feature-Based Molecular Networks Identification of Bioactive Metabolites from Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia Targeting the Dermal Papilla Cells of the Hair Cycle.

Kristelle Hughes,Edwige Ranouille,Stéphane Greff,Edith Filaire,Raimana Ho,Phila Raharivelomanana,Gaëtan Herbette,Jean-Yves Berthon

doi:10.3390/molecules27010105

Abstract

The term cosmetopoeia refers to the use of plants in folks’ cosmetics. The aerial parts of Bidens pilosa L., the leaves of Calophyllum inophyllum L. and the fruits of Fagraea berteroana A.Gray ex Benth are traditionally used in French Polynesia for hair and skin care. During the hair cycle, dermal papilla cells and their interaction with epithelial cells are essential to promote hair follicle elongation. The aim of our investigations was the identification of metabolites from these three plants and chemical families responsible for their hair growth activity. A bioactivity-based molecular network was produced by mapping the correlation between features obtained from LC-MS/MS data and dermal papilla cell proliferation, using the Pearson correlation coefficient. The analyses pointed out glycosylated flavonols and phenolic acids from B. pilosa and C. inophyllum, along with C-flavonoids, iridoids and secoiridoids from F. berteroana, as potential bioactive molecules involved in the proliferation of hair follicle dermal papilla cells. Our results highlight the metabolites of the plant species potentially involved in the induction of hair follicle growth and support the traditional uses of these plants in hair care.

Highlights

The current natural products bioassay-guided fractioning from plant material extraction to isolation of active compounds presents several drawbacks
The aim of this study was dual: firstly, to further our investigations of the chemical composition of our three plant species B. pilosa, C. inophyllum and F. berteroana, and secondly to highlight which metabolites or chemical families could be involved in the observed hair growth-related biological activities of the fractions/extracts obtained from the three plants
The Feature Based Molecular Network paired with the cell proliferation bioactivity enabled us to deepen our knowledge of bioactive metabolites found in plants traditionally used for hair care in French Polynesia

Summary

Introduction

The current natural products bioassay-guided fractioning from plant material extraction to isolation of active compounds presents several drawbacks. Finding novel molecules that possess significant bioactivities can be time consuming and yet yield little reward (too little quantity of isolated product or in complex mixture, lack of activity in single compounds tests, degradation of sample during multiple fractioning steps). This leads to a redundancy in isolated products as purifiable compounds often correspond to well-known molecules. Molecular networks applied to natural products research have made it possible to map the true complexity and metabolite richness of plant extracts [2,3]

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Results

Conclusion