Abstract

In this study, the fabrication – that is, weaving and softening of linen fabric – was accomplished by on-loom integrated finishing on a handloom using a special attachment. The optimization of the process parameters (finish liquor concentration, temperature and curing time) for these on-loom integrated softening finished fabrics were investigated. The softened linen fabric was studied for their physical properties like softness, drapeability, wickability, water vapour permeability, air permeability, total crease recovery angle, tensile and tear strength against untreated fabric and also compared with similar finished market sample. Furthermore, chemical interaction of the softener with linen fabric and their morphology were studied by the Fourier transform infrared and scanning electron microscopy, respectively. The results showed that as the concentration of the finish liquor increased, the softening effect increased, while wickability decreased after the particular optimum point. It was observed that drapeability, total crease recovery angle, tensile and tear strength were increased till the optimum point with the increase in process parameters. However, water vapour permeability and air permeability were decreased. The Fourier transform infrared and scanning electron microscopy studies clearly proved the presence of softener chemical and a coating of a thin layer on the fabric. The optimum process parameters of concentration of the finish liquor, curing temperature and curing time were found to be 10 g/L, 60°C and 5 min, respectively, for softening of linen fabric using this integrated finishing method.

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